A post about chicken oysters is probably something that you would expect to find on Mr. Dave’s blog Ridiculous Food Society of Upstate New York. Mr. Dave can always be counted on to focus our attention on some previously unheralded culinary treasure, like Deep Fried Hot Dogs or Stewart’s Pumpkin Pie Ice Cream. I have been waiting for him to write a post about chicken oysters, but since nothing has been forthcoming, I decided to tackle this on my own.
|This is the Chicken “Oyster”|
The two tiny morsels are too small to present as part of a dinner plate, so most chefs will save them to entice whichever dining room waitstaff they are hitting on that month, or pop them in their mouth when no one is looking. I have never seen them offered on a restaurant menu, until last year on a trip to New York and a visit to Daniel Boulud’s db Bistro Moderne. The Executive Chef, Laurent Kalkotour, had used them as the supporting player in a dish of escargot, but for me the chicken oysters were the star of the plate. Sauteed with snails and button mushrooms, the dish was served in a puddle of parsley black garlic consomme, and topped with crostini spread with a schmear of roasted beef bone marrow.
|db Bistro Moderne’s Escargot with Chicken “Oysters”,
Mushrooms and Marrow Spread Crostini
This dish raised all of these bistro “peasant classics” to a collectively inspired dish which I have added to my Top Ten Life List of Best Dishes. I am unable to return to db Bistro without ordering this dish, which is available as an appetizer or as an entree (or both!)