1746 Route 9W
West Park, NY 12493
Reservations: 845-384-6590 | firstname.lastname@example.org
Dinner, Wednesday through Sunday from 5 PM | Sunday Brunch 10 AM – 2 PM
If I were in real estate I would say that Global Palate is centrally located between Kingston and Highland. Located in the old roadhouse that housed Marcel’s in days of yore, the restaurant’s dining room, and the bar in particular, have always been on my list of favorites. If you had a dream about a 1960’s neighborhood bistro, this is probably what you would dream about. A small comfy “neighborhood” bar is right at the entrance. A door behind the bar leads to the kitchen. Wings on either side of the bar hold small dining rooms with just enough seats for the owner to make a living.
Chef / proprietor, Jessica Winchell, opened Global Palate nine years ago. Thankfully she focused her talents on the menu, but left the restaurant’s bar and dining areas largely untouched. Marcel’s French accents gave way to an “American Bistro” menu, which played to rave reviews right from the start.
If truth be told, I was not one of the raves. The new place was a little too pricey, the preparations a little too moderné. The menu, while well executed, was not my cup of tea. Perhaps it was just an overreaction to losing Marcel’s, which along with Le Pavillon in Poughkeepsie and Chez Marcel’s in Rhinebeck, was a reliable source of a good crock of cassoulet. But alas, those days – and restaurants – are gone.
It had been many years since I had eaten at Global Palate, but in the middle of last week’s dinner, (and after a very reasonably priced glass of house Chardonnay) I looked at my table mates and exclaimed: Tell me again why we stopped coming here?
If you haven’t eaten here lately, it’s time for another visit. Chef Winchell’s menu is tightly focused (four appetizers, seven entrees, plus specials) and highlights locally sourced products. Hudson Valley Cattle Company in Stone Ridge supplies the beef. Fazio Farms in Modena provides the duck. The egg that arrived perched on my salad was retrieved from the chef’s henhouse. You can’t get more local than that. She also pays attention to her seafood selections, restricting her offerings to sustainably caught fish. Kudos for that.
My Caesar salad arrived with the said aforementioned very local poached egg riding on a pile of romaine. The lettuce had been dressed with a good olive oil braced with a little lemon. It was fantastic. A side of calamari accompanied the salad, paired with a lime sweet and sour dipping sauce.
The show stopper for me was the Pacific cod, pan roasted and plated with a Jamaican style escovitch over rice and beans. The fish, a sustainably harvested cousin of the severely depleted Gulf of Maine cod, was seared to a sweet tender perfection, and complemented with a piquant Jamaican escovitch – a trinity of onion, carrot, and pepper blended with vinegar, all plated on steamy rice and bean base. Killer dish.
My companions were torn between the regular menu listing of Angus beef short ribs with risotto or an evening special of lamb curry. A coffee and spice rubbed duck breast with a Mexican style chocolate mole poblano sauce will have to wait for our next visit, which will be very soon. Global Palate combines the casual comfort of the local roadhouse with a menu of modern classics spiked with international influences. It’s all very well executed, but still casual and fun and certainly unique. Adventurous palates will be well rewarded.